The Estee Lauder Companies Inc. 2009 Annual Report

MANAGEMENT'S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF
FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
(continued)

COST OF SALES
Cost of sales as a percentage of total net sales was 25.2%, which is the same as in fiscal 2007. Cost of sales as a percentage of net sales reflected a decrease in the level and timing of promotional activities of approximately 20 basis points and a positive effect of exchange rates of approximately 10 basis points. Offsetting these improvements was an unfavorable change in the mix of our business, an increase in obsolescence charges, and employee-related charges designed to streamline certain business activities and achieve future cost savings of approximately 10 basis points, each.

Despite the rise in energy and raw material prices in the current year, we were able to maintain our overall cost of goods margin through other efficiencies achieved from ongoing savings initiatives.

Since certain promotional activities are a component of sales or cost of sales and the timing and level of promotions vary with our promotional calendar, we have experienced, and expect to continue to experience, fluctuations in the cost of sales percentage. In addition, future cost of sales mix may be impacted by the inclusion of new brands which have margin and product cost structures different from those of our existing brands.

OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses increased to 64.5% of net sales as compared with 64.1% of net sales in the fiscal 2007. The increase in operating expenses and operating expense margin reflected higher costs of global information technology systems and infrastructure of approximately 30 basis points. An additional 20 basis points resulted from an increase in valuation reserves reflecting the diminishing likelihood of realizing value from a promissory note and convertible preferred stock received in connection with the divestiture of Stila in fiscal 2006. We also recorded an increase in intangible asset amortization resulting from recent strategic acquisitions, as well as employee-related charges designed to streamline certain business activities and achieve future cost savings, of approximately 10 basis points each. Operating expense margin in fiscal 2007 was adversely impacted by charges related to our pharmacy channel of approximately 40 basis points.

Changes in advertising, merchandising and sampling spending result from the type, timing and level of activities related to product launches and rollouts, as well as the markets being emphasized.

OPERATING RESULTS
Operating income increased 8%, or $60.8 million, to $810.7 million as compared with fiscal 2007. Operating margin declined to 10.3% of net sales as compared with 10.7% in fiscal 2007, reflecting our constant cost of sales margin and the increase in our operating expense margin, as previously discussed.

Product Categories
Fragrance operating income increased 29%, or $8.1 million, to $36.2 million, reflecting profitable international growth, partially offset by increased spending in support of designer fragrance products initiatives. Skin care operating income increased 19%, or $64.1 million, to $405.6 million, primarily reflecting improved international results from certain of our heritage brands and net sales growth from La Mer products and Tri-Aktiline™ Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler from Good Skin™. In addition, the fiscal 2007 results in this category reflected organizational costs of approximately $30 million, primarily related to our pharmacy channel in Europe. Makeup operating income increased 6%, or $20.1 million, to $359.4 million, primarily reflecting improved results internationally. These improvements were partially offset by lower results in the United States from certain of our heritage brands, the charge on the impairment of Stila-related financial instruments, and costs related to the establishment of new points of distribution for M·A·C Hair care operating income declined 73%, or $31.0 million, to $11.5 million, primarily reflecting costs related to the acquisition and integration of Ojon to position the brand for future growth. The results in this category also reflected an increase in intangible asset amortization resulting from fiscal 2008 strategic acquisitions as well as costs related to the establishment of new points of distribution.

Geographic Regions
Operating income in the Americas declined 32%, or $108.1 million, to $228.3 million, primarily reflecting a difficult retail environment in which our heritage brands faced challenges in the department store channel. We also experienced significant pressure on the profitability of our hair care business as discussed above. At the same time, we continued to invest in our global information technology systems and infrastructure. In addition, we established new points of distribution for existing brands, incurred costs to streamline certain business activities to generate future efficiencies and incurred a charge on the impairment of Stila-related financial instruments, as discussed above.

In Europe, the Middle East & Africa, operating income increased 35%, or $111.7 million, to $433.1 million primarily due to higher results of approximately $71 million in our travel retail business, the United Kingdom, Italy, the Balkans and Spain. Partially offsetting these increases were lower results in Russia and India of approximately $6 million, reflecting spending to support our expansion in these markets. The overall operating results in this region were adversely impacted in fiscal 2007 by the pharmacy channel charges discussed above.

In Asia/Pacific, operating income increased 61%, or $56.5 million, to $149.7 million. All of our affiliates in this region experienced an increase in operating income, primarily resulting from net sales growth led by Japan, Hong Kong, China, Australia and Korea, which contributed approximately $43 million, collectively.

INTEREST EXPENSE, NET
Net interest expense was $66.8 million as compared with $38.9 million in fiscal 2007. This change primarily resulted from higher average debt balances, including an additional $600.0 million of senior notes issued in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2007, partially offset by lower average interest rates.

PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents Federal, foreign, state and local income taxes. The effective rate differs from statutory rates due to the effect of state and local taxes, tax rates in foreign jurisdictions and certain nondeductible expenses. Our effective tax rate will change from year to year based on non-recurring and recurring factors including, but not limited to, the geographical mix of earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local taxes, tax audit settlements and the interaction of various global tax strategies. The effective rate for income taxes for the year ended June 30, 2008 was 34.9% as compared with 35.9% in fiscal 2007. The decrease in the effective income tax rate of 100 basis points resulted primarily from a decrease in state and local income tax expense (240 basis points) partially offset by an increase in the tax effect of our foreign operations (140 basis points).

NET EARNINGS
Net earnings as compared with fiscal 2007 increased 5%, or $24.6 million, to $473.8 million and diluted net earnings per common share improved 11% from $2.16 to $2.40.