The Estee Lauder Companies Inc. 2009 Annual Report

MANAGEMENT'S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF
FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
(continued)

COST OF SALES
Cost of sales as a percentage of total net sales increased to 25.7% as compared with 25.2% in the prior year. This change reflected an increase in obsolescence charges of approximately 40 basis points, excess overhead costs that were not recovered due to lower production levels of approximately 30 basis points and the negative effect of exchange rates of approximately 20 basis points. The increase in cost of sales margin also reflected the fiscal 2009 impact of charges associated with restructuring activities and an increase in the level and timing of promotional activities of approximately 10 basis points, each. Partially offsetting these increases were favorable changes in the mix of our business and from other manufacturing variances of approximately 50 basis points and 10 basis points, respectively.

Since certain promotional activities are a component of sales or cost of sales and the timing and level of promotions vary with our promotional calendar, we have experienced, and expect to continue to experience, fluctuations in the cost of sales percentage. In addition, future cost of sales mix may be impacted by the inclusion of new brands or channels of distribution which have margin and product cost structures different from those of our current mix of business.

OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses increased to 68.6% of net sales as compared with 64.5% of net sales in the prior year. In light of the current economic conditions, we continued to apply various cost-containment measures to maintain expenses in line with our business needs. While the implementation of these initiatives helped reduce total operating expenses as compared with the prior year, the dramatic decline in net sales during fiscal 2009 was the principal factor that negatively impacted our operating expense margin. In addition to the decline in net sales, operating expense margin increased by approximately 110 basis points due to charges associated with restructuring activities, as previously discussed.

During fiscal 2009, we evaluated our goodwill, intangible assets and other long-lived assets based upon certain triggering events as well as our annual impairment test of goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. Inclusive of the impairment charges incurred during the third quarter of fiscal 2009, we recorded impairment charges of approximately $14 million related to goodwill, approximately $23 million related to trademarks with indefinite lives, approximately $17 million related to other amortizable intangible assets and approximately $9 million related to property, plant and equipment for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2009. The principal factors that contributed to these impairment charges were lower than expected operating cash flow performance relative to the reporting unit and/or affected assets being tested and the impact of the current economic environment on their projected future results of operations. Collectively, these charges resulted in an increase to our operating expense margin of approximately 90 basis points. For further detailed discussion, refer to Note 4 and Note 5 to the Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements.

Despite a reduction in actual selling, advertising, merchandising and sampling spending, operating expense margin increased by approximately 60 basis points driven by the decline in consumer demand in the current economic environment. Changes in advertising, merchandising and sampling spending result from the type, timing and level of activities related to product launches and rollouts, as well as the markets being emphasized.

Other factors that contributed to the increase in operating expense margin were higher costs of global information technology systems and infrastructure of approximately 50 basis points, net losses from foreign exchange transactions of approximately 40 basis points, and charges resulting from the degradation of the businesses of certain of our retail customers of approximately 20 basis points.