MANAGEMENT'S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF
FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
(continued)
FISCAL 2006 AS COMPARED WITH FISCAL 2005
NET SALES
Net sales increased 3%, or $183.8 million, to $6,463.8
million due to growth in our makeup, skin care and hair
care product categories, which was partially offset by
lower sales in our fragrance product category. The net
increase reflected sales growth in all geographic regions.
Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, net
sales increased 4%.
Product Categories
Skin Care Net sales of skin care products increased 2%,
or $48.7 million, to $2,400.8 million primarily due to new
product launches. The fiscal 2006 launches of Resilience
Lift Extreme Ultra Firming Cremes and Re-Nutriv Ultimate
Lifting Serum by Estée Lauder, and Turnaround Concentrate
Visible Skin Renewer and Turnaround 15-Minute
Facial by Clinique generated incremental sales of approximately
$123 million, combined. Perfectionist [CP+] by
Estée Lauder and products in Clinique's 3-Step Skin Care
System, bolstered by the introduction of Liquid Facial
Soap, contributed approximately $78 million to the
increase. These improvements were offset by approximately
$157 million of decreases in sales of existing products
in certain of our core brands as well as declines in
our BeautyBank brands, which completed their initial rollout
during fiscal 2005. Excluding the impact of foreign
currency translation, skin care net sales increased 3%.
Makeup Makeup net sales increased 6%, or $137.4
million, to $2,504.2 million reflecting growth from our
makeup artist brands of approximately $179 million. This
growth was partially offset by approximately $72 million
of lower sales from certain existing products, reflecting
challenges experienced by certain of our core brands, and
declines in our BeautyBank brands, which completed
their initial rollout during fiscal 2005. Excluding the
impact of foreign currency translation, makeup net sales
increased 7%.
Fragrance Net sales of fragrance products decreased 4%,
or $47.3 million, to $1,213.3 million as we continued to be
challenged in this product category, particularly in the
Americas region. Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise and
various fragrances from Clinique and Tommy Hilfiger
generated approximately $106 million of lower sales. Also
contributing to the decrease were lower sales of approximately
$28 million of True Star by Tommy Hilfiger and
Lauder Beyond Paradise Men by Estée Lauder as we anniversaried
the initial shipments of those products in
fiscal 2005. These decreases were partially offset by
the fiscal 2006 launches of True Star Men by Tommy
Hilfiger and Unforgivable by Sean John, which collectively
contributed approximately $49 million to the category,
and higher sales of approximately $47 million of DKNY
Be Delicious and Estée Lauder pleasures. Excluding the
impact of foreign currency translation, fragrance net sales
decreased 2%.
Hair Care Hair care net sales increased 16%, or $44.8
million, to $318.7 million, primarily due to sales growth
from Bumble and bumble and Aveda products. Bumble
and bumble sales benefited from sales growth due to new
points of distribution, increases in sales of core products
and the launches of Shine and Powder products. Aveda
net sales increases benefited from the fiscal 2006 launch
of Damage Remedy hair care products, strong demand
for color products and from the acquisition of a distributor.
Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation,
hair care net sales increased 17%.
Geographic Regions
Net sales in the Americas increased 3%, or $95.3 million,
to $3,446.4 million. The increase was led by growth in the
United States of approximately $190 million from our
makeup artist and hair care brands, our internet distribution,
and the introduction of the Unforgivable fragrance
by Sean John. Partially offsetting this growth was approximately
$122 million related to weaknesses in certain of
our core brands as a result of challenges from competitive
pressures and business disruptions at certain key retailers,
and lower sales from our BeautyBank brands, which
completed their initial rollout during fiscal 2005. Net sales
growth in Canada, Latin America and Mexico contributed
an additional $48 million to the increase.
In Europe, the Middle East & Africa, net sales increased
2%, or $38.6 million, to $2,147.7 million, reflecting higher
net sales of approximately $64 million from our travel
retail and distributor businesses, Russia and the United
Kingdom, with all benefiting from the success of the
DKNY Be Delicious franchise and the sale of M·A·C
products. These increases were partially offset by
decreases of approximately $26 million in Spain and Italy.
Spain's net sales were adversely affected by changes to
our distribution policy and a difficult retail environment.
Net sales in Italy were negatively impacted by changes to
our distribution policy and, to a lesser extent, the balancing
of inventory levels at its retailers. On a local currency
basis, net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa
increased 5%.
Net sales in Asia/Pacific increased 6%, or $49.9 million,
to $869.7 million. Strategic growth in China combined
with positive results in Korea and Hong Kong, contributed
approximately $57 million to sales growth in this region.
These increases were partially offset by decreases in Japan
and Australia of approximately $18 million. Japan's results
were negatively impacted due to the strengthening of the
U.S. dollar against the Japanese yen. The decrease in
Australia reflected slower sell-through in a difficult retail
environment, particularly in the fragrance category, as
well as the balancing of inventory levels at a major retailer.
On a local currency basis, net sales in Asia/Pacific
increased 7%.
We strategically stagger our new product launches by
geographic market, which may account for differences in
regional sales growth.
COST OF SALES
Cost of sales as a percentage of total net sales increased
to 26.1% as compared with 25.5% in fiscal 2005. This
change reflected an increase in obsolescence charges of
approximately 40 basis points, the net change in the mix
of our business within our geographic regions and product
categories of approximately 20 basis points, a charge
related to unutilized tooling of approximately 10 basis
points and 20 basis points related to commodity material
prices. Partially offsetting these increases were favorable
changes in promotional activities of approximately 30
basis points. The higher price of oil resulted in price
increases in certain oil-based chemicals, which had a
slight adverse effect on our cost of sales margin.
Since certain promotional activities are a component
of net sales or cost of sales and the timing and level of
promotions vary with our promotional calendar, we have
experienced fluctuations in the cost of sales percentage.
OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses increased to 64.3% of net sales as
compared with 62.9% of net sales in fiscal 2005. The fiscal
2006 operating expense margin was negatively impacted
by charges related to the implementation of our cost
savings initiative of approximately $92.1 million or approximately
140 basis points, costs related to stock-based
compensation as a result of the fiscal 2006 adoption of
SFAS No. 123(R) of approximately 60 basis points, and
the estimated impact of both the merger of Federated
Department Stores, Inc. and The May Department Stores
Company and the hurricanes that affected the southern
United States of approximately 40 basis points. Partially
offsetting these incremental costs were operating expense
margin improvements of approximately 90 basis points
primarily resulting from net sales growth in brands
and channels with lower advertising, merchandising and
sampling cost structures as well as an overall reduction in
this type of spending. Overall operating expenses
reflected savings achieved during fiscal 2006 from our
cost savings initiative.
Changes in advertising, sampling and merchandising
spending result from the type, timing and level of activities
related to product launches and rollouts, as well as the
markets being emphasized.
During fiscal 2006, we recorded special charges associated
with a cost savings initiative that was designed to
support our long-term financial objectives. As part of this
multi-faceted initiative, we identified savings opportunities
that include streamlined processes and organizational
changes. The principal component of the initiative was a
voluntary separation program offered primarily to North
America-based employees. During the fourth quarter of
fiscal 2006, involuntary separations were communicated
to certain employees. Under this initiative, we incurred
expenses related to one-time termination benefits for 494
employees, of which 28 were involuntary, which benefits
were based principally upon years of service.
In addition, we identified other cost savings opportunities
to improve efficiencies in our distribution network and
product offerings and to eliminate other nonessential
costs. These charges primarily related to employee severance
for facilities that are closing, contract cancellations,
counter and door closings and product returns.
For the year ended June 30, 2006, aggregate expenses
of $92.1 million were recorded as special charges related
to the cost savings initiative in the accompanying consolidated
statement of earnings.
The following table summarizes the costs and expected
savings associated with our cost savings initiative, which
impacted, and will continue to impact, our operating
expenses and cost of sales:
OPERATING RESULTS
Operating income decreased 15%, or $107.2 million, to
$619.6 million. Operating margin was 9.6% of net sales in
fiscal 2006 as compared with 11.6% in fiscal 2005. These
results were negatively impacted by the effects of special
charges related to our cost savings initiative of $92.1 million,
or 1.4% of net sales. In addition to the special
charges, net sales growth was more than offset by the
increases in our cost of sales and operating expense
margins as previously discussed.
The following discussions of Operating Results by
Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the
impact of special charges related to the implementation
of our cost savings initiative. We believe the following
analysis of operating results better reflects the manner in
which we conduct and view our business.
Product Categories
Operating income declined 79%, or $28.1 million, to $7.7
million in the fragrance product category reflecting lower
sales and, to a lesser extent, expenses incurred related to
development of new products and brands, partially offset
by a shift in spending in certain of our core brands to
other product categories. Skin care operating income
decreased 5%, or $19.4 million, to $346.4 million primarily
reflecting lower than anticipated net sales in certain of
our core brands. Operating income increased 9%, or
$28.3 million, to $329.4 million in the makeup product
category primarily reflecting sales growth from our
makeup artist brands, partially offset by declines in certain
of our core brands. Hair care operating income increased
16%, or $3.7 million, to $26.5 million reflecting worldwide
sales growth. In fiscal 2006, the merger of Federated
Department Stores, Inc. and The May Department Stores
Company had a negative impact on the operating results
of our skin care, makeup and fragrance product categories,
while incremental operating expenses associated
with new accounting rules for stock-based compensation
negatively impacted all of our product categories.
Geographic Regions
Operating income in the Americas decreased 6%, or
$22.1 million, to $344.1 million, primarily reflecting challenges
experienced by certain of our core brands, due in
part to competitive pressures and retailer consolidations,
and incremental operating expenses of approximately
$33 million associated with new accounting rules for
stock-based compensation. The ongoing success of our
makeup artist and hair care brands and our internet distribution
partially offset these challenges.
In Europe, the Middle East & Africa, operating income
decreased 3%, or $7.8 million, to $297.5 million. This
decrease was primarily due to lower results in Spain,
Benelux (Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg) and
Italy of approximately $20 million, collectively. These
decreases were partially offset by improvements of
approximately $12 million in France, our travel retail
business and Central Europe (Hungary, Poland and
Czech Republic).
In Asia/Pacific, operating income increased 27%, or
$14.8 million, to $70.1 million. This increase reflects
improved results of approximately $16 million in Korea,
Japan and China, partially offset by lower results in Taiwan
and Thailand of approximately $4 million, collectively. As
China is an emerging market for us, we have invested, and
plan to continue to invest, in new brand expansion
and business opportunities there.
INTEREST EXPENSE, NET
Net interest expense was $23.8 million as compared with
$13.9 million in fiscal 2005. The increase in net interest
expense was primarily due to higher average interest
rates and, to a lesser extent, higher average debt balances
due to outstanding commercial paper during the
year. The increased expense was partially offset by
increased interest income related to higher investment
interest rates.
PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents Federal, foreign,
state and local income taxes. The effective rate for
income taxes for fiscal 2006 was 43.6% as compared with
41.2% in fiscal 2005. The effective rate differs from statutory
rates due to the effect of state and local taxes, tax
rates in foreign jurisdictions and certain nondeductible
expenses. The Company's effective tax rate will change
from year to year based on non-recurring and recurring
factors including, but not limited to, the geographic mix of
earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local taxes, tax
audit findings and settlements and the interaction of
various global tax strategies.
On July 13, 2006, we announced a settlement with the
Internal Revenue Service ("IRS") regarding its examination
of our consolidated Federal income tax returns for the
fiscal years ended June 30, 1998 through June 30, 2001.
The settlement resolves previously disclosed issues raised
during the IRS's examination, including transfer pricing
and foreign tax credit computations. The settlement of
these issues resulted in a tax charge of approximately $46
million in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2006 and represents
the aggregate earnings impact of the settlement through
fiscal 2006. In addition, during the fourth quarter of fiscal
2006, we completed the repatriation of foreign earnings
through intercompany dividends as required under the
provisions of the American Jobs Creation Act of 2004 (the
"AJCA"). In connection with the repatriation, we updated
the computation of the related aggregate tax impact,
resulting in a favorable adjustment of approximately $11
million. The tax settlement, coupled with the AJCA favorable
tax adjustment, resulted in a net increase to our fiscal
2006 income tax provision of approximately $35 million.
The increase in the effective income tax rate was attributable
to the tax settlement charge of approximately 770
basis points, an increase of approximately 60 basis points
resulting from our foreign operations and an increase in
nondeductible expenses of approximately 30 basis points.
These increases were partially offset by the net reduction
in the incremental tax charge relative to the repatriation of
foreign earnings pursuant to the AJCA of approximately
570 basis points, as well as a reduction of approximately
50 basis points for miscellaneous items.
DISCONTINUED OPERATIONS
On April 10, 2006 (the "Effective Date"), we completed
the sale of certain assets and operations of the reporting
unit that marketed and sold Stila brand products to
Stila Corp. (the "Purchaser"), an affiliate of Sun Capital
Partners, Inc., for consideration of $23.0 million. The sale
price included cash of $9.3 million, a promissory note
with a notional value of $13.3 million and a fair value of
$11.0 million and convertible preferred stock with an
aggregate liquidation preference of $5.0 million and a fair
value of $2.7 million. As additional consideration for the
purchased assets, and subject to the terms and conditions
of the sale agreement, the Purchaser will pay us an
amount equal to two percent of the annual net sales of
the acquired business during the period commencing on
the Effective Date and ending August 20, 2019. We will
use these proceeds to satisfy our commitment under the
1999 agreement pursuant to which we originally purchased
the Stila business. The Purchaser immediately
assumed responsibility for all decisions regarding the
operations of the Stila business and we agreed to divest
ourselves of continuing involvement in the Stila business,
except as described below.
In fiscal 2006, we recorded charges of $80.3 million
(net of $43.3 million tax benefit) to discontinued operations,
which reflected the loss on the disposition of the
business of $69.9 million, net of tax, and adjustments to
the fair value of assets sold, the costs to dispose of those
assets not acquired by the Purchaser and other costs in
connection with the sale. The charges also included the
operating losses of $10.4 million, net of tax, for the fiscal
year ended June 30, 2006. Net sales associated with the
discontinued operations were $45.1 million for the fiscal
year ended June 30, 2006. All statements of earnings
information for previous years has been restated for comparative
purposes, including the restatement of the
makeup product category and each of the geographic
regions presented in Note 17 of Notes to Consolidated
Financial Statements - Segment Data and Related
Information.
In order to facilitate the transition of the Stila business
to the Purchaser, we agreed to provide certain information
systems, accounting and other back office services to
the Purchaser in exchange for monthly service fees
designed to recover the estimated costs of providing
these transition services. We also agreed with the Purchaser
to provide certain distribution and online services.
In both cases, the services concluded in fiscal 2007.
In addition, we agreed to manufacture and sell to the
Purchaser a limited range of products for a period of up to
four months following the Effective Date and, in the case
of one product, of up to two years.
NET EARNINGS
Net earnings as compared with fiscal 2005 declined
$161.9 million or 40% to $244.2 million and diluted net
earnings per common share decreased 37% from $1.78
to $1.12. Net earnings from continuing operations as compared
with fiscal 2005 decreased by $85.4 million, or
21%, to $324.5 million and diluted net earnings per
common share from continuing operations decreased
17% from $1.80 to $1.49.
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